Rain in Spain and More Pintxos

On Monday March 23, it rained all day and the high temperature was only about 8C.  We're getting a bit down after our beautiful weather in the south of Spain and not being able to see San Sebastian in the sun.  However, we have our umbrellas, so are prepared.

The view of the Cathedral from our window 

We started with a coffee at Cafe Panchito-an excellent espresso and a cortado for 1.90 euros is hard to beat.  We then walked downtown.  The trees, which are apparently tamarinds (not local) are eye-catching.

Trees framing interesting building

The building on the left had a tree motive on the facade

We wanted to check out the gourmet food store in the Hotel Maria Cristina- a luxury, landmark Belle Epoque hotel that was renovated in 2012-13.  San Sebastian Food has been around for a year, but only recently opened a store and cooking school in part of the hotel.  The cooking courses are very expensive, but the shop had some lovely items.

We wandered into the hotel.  There was a display cabinet with this amazing "ham and eggs" dress by Agatha Ruiz de la Prada.  There was a commentary about the collaboration of the Hotel with Cook and Fashion, noting that there were different dresses on each hotel floor and also an innovative restaurant menu.

Ham and eggs- Cook and Fashion

We walked across one of the bridges to the other side of the river.  It was low tide in the Bay of Biscay and lots of rocks were exposed.

Low tide

We walked around a neighbourhood called Gros, with our destination a well reviewed pintxos bar called Bergara Bar.   The pintxos were beautifully displayed and they were all excellent.  As we were there a bit before the main lunch crowd, we were able to sit at a communal table. There are never many tables in a pintxos bar, as most people eat standing up at or near the bar.

Outside Bergara Bar

The pintxos bar

A closer look

Alano with red pepper and anchovy pintxo

We had a delicious tuna, anchovy and onion pintxo

Alano and I also shared a hot pintxo-- fideos (chopped thin noodles) with shrimps and chorizo and garlic mayonnaise.  It was served in a tin.  We have seen a few pintxos served this way.  Keeps it warm.

Before

After-- fideos

More pintxos on display

These were interesting looking

The last pintxo we had was cod with crispy onions and peppers- one of the best.  I had a nice glass of Txakoli (basque white wine) with the food.  Bergara has won many awards for "miniature food". Yum!

                                                            Cod with crispy onions

On a nearby street, we saw the second painting/ display honouring a neighbourhood person.  Santiago Hernandez (1927-2003), known as Txantxillo, was a newspaper hawker who also played The International and other tunes on a xylophone and later on electronic organ.  The plaque was in Basque, Spanish and English.

                                                    Txantxillo- honoured with a painting and accompanying plaque

We wandered a bit more and then stopped for a coffee at Zabala Kafeak, a large cafe and bakery with communal tables.   We picked up a baguette from the bakery.

Zabala Kafeak- another great bakery and cafe

We returned to the Pension to rest and get out of the rain.  At about 9:00 p.m. we headed back out in the rain to Old Town (just a 10 minute walk) for more pintxos for dinner.  We first stopped at La Mejillonera, a bar specializing in mussels and squid.  It is a favourite with locals, as the evening manager at our Pension had also recommended it.  We had a delicious mussel pintxo with a great tomato sauce (dish was called Tigres).  I had a glass of Txakoli and Alano had a glass of red wine.

Mussels- in delicious tomato sauce

At the bar with mussels

Our second pintxo was a plate of patatas bravas with a special house sauce.  The Spanish eat a lot of bread, and a certain pintxos come with a serving of bread.  All very good.

Alano with patatas bravas-- sauce a house specialty

The bar with menu on wall

We then went looking for another recommended place, but it appeared to be closed on Mondays.  We ended up at Gandarias where we had a nice piece of tortilla (Spanish omelette) and a glass of red wine.  Then back to the Pension for the night.  It is now Tuesday March 24, and guess what- it's cool and rainy.  We are really beginning to doubt that there is sun in San Sebastian.