Arriving in Madrid

On Monday March 16, we took the train from Cordoba to Madrid.  Our landlord in Cordoba had ordered a taxi for 10:00 a.m. and it arrived on the dot.  We were on a fast train that left at 10:42  a.m. and arrived at 12:33 p.m.  The time just sped by.  We were very lucky to have bought a senior card for six euros when we booked our first train ride from Granada to Cadiz.  The card is good for a year and we have saved a lot of money on our train tickets.  When we arrived in Madrid, we intended to buy the next leg of our journey to San Sebastian.  After waiting in line for almost an hour, there were still 40 numbers to go ((just like our passport office), so we gave up and took a taxi to our apartment. Madrid was sunny, but cool-a high of about 15C.

Carmen and Miguel, the landlords, were there to greet us.  Their English is very good and they were very welcoming.  The apartment is well located.  It is a bit smaller than our other apartments, which had separate bedrooms (this is more of a studio),  but it has a well-equiped kitchen and good shower.

View of studio apartment                                                                

Facing the other way

Outside of our apartment building- we are on the third floor (the top floor)

We decided to walk over to the nearby Mercado de San Miguel.  The original 1916 Mercado was built to evoke Les Halles in Paris.  It underwent a major six year renovation starting in 2003 and re-opened in 2009.  It is the last remaining iron market hall in Madrid and is considered a Site of Cultural Interest in the Monument category.  It has 33 vendors, but they are mainly selling tapas, pastries, wine, coffee, cheese and some seafood.  More of a gourmet market than a place to buy food to cook.  It is open from 10:00 .am. until 10:00 p.m. on Monday to Wednesday and until 2:00 a.m. Thursday to Saturday.  People wander around with their drinks, sampling tapas and other treats.  We had lunch there, grazing at about four or five different stalls.  The Mercado aims to become a Centre for Culinary Culture and it seems to be succeeding.  The place was packed at around 3:00 p.m.

Outside the Mercado de San Miguel

Display of yummy tapas

Alano with cod and herring tapas- 1 euro each

Olives with fish or ham 

Paper containers with ham pieces

Blue bottle chandelier

We shared tapas: ham and manchego cheese; cod; herring; smoked salmon and olive/fish.  I had a glass of vermouth (1.50 euro) and then we had coffee and a dessert.  Lots of fun and high quality food at reasonable prices.

Having a glass of vermouth (vermut)

The price list for sangria and vermouth was very reasonable.

Stall where we had our coffees

We walked to Plaza Mayor, Madrid's grand central square. The plaza was designed in 1619.  Bullfights took place there until 1878.  Burnings at the stake and deaths by garrotte took place during the Inquisition at different sides of the square.  These executions took place until 1790 when a fire almost destroyed the square.  It was subsequently rebuilt under the supervision of Juan de Villanueva, who designed the building that now houses the Museo del Prado.  The main tourist office is located in the Plaza.

Plaza Mayor building that houses the Tourist Office

Plaza Mayor- A very large square

It was then chocolate and churros time.  We went to Chocolateria San Gines, which has been open since 1894 and serves only chocolate and churros, besides coffee.   The place was getting busy as we arrived at by 6:00 p.m., largely with locals.

Chocolateria San Gines 

Mural and folks enjoying their churros outside

Coils of churros

One order of chocolate comes with six churros- Alano and I split one order.  At an adjoining table, a family of four was having a cup of chocolate and six churros each!

I think that may do it for churros and chocolate this trip, but one never knows.

Plaque outside chocolateria

We went to Mercado Cebada to pick up some food for dinner.  The tourist office told us that the market was open until 2:00 p.m. and then reopens from 5:30 p.m. to 8:30 p.m.  We were there at around 6:30.  While there were a few stalls open, most were closed.  We were able to get some fish and vegetables for dinner.  This market is in the La Latina area, not to far from our apartment and there is a street full of tapas bars and restaurants nearby.  We stopped in at a wonderful shop selling different types of ham.  We bought some chorizo and a bottle of Roja.

Mercado Cebada

Filleting our fish

Our last stop on a street near the apartment- chorizo and wine

Madrid does seem to be moveable feast.  We had dinner at the apartment as we were both a bit tired.  On Tuesday March 17, we are planning to take the Madrid free tour.