Discovering Granada

On Monday March 2, we had a 10:45 a.m. flight to Granada.  We took the Aerobus to the airport.  It took us almost an hour to get there, instead of around 30 minutes due to Barcelona's rush hour.  Luckily we had given ourselves enough time.  We flew on Vueling Airline, a discount carrier operated by Iberia Airlines (owned by British Air).  It was a very pleasant 1 1/2 hour flight.  We landed at the small Granada airport, now named after Federico Garcia Lorca, the Spanish poet, playwright and theatre director, born in Granada and executed by the Franco Nationalist forces in 1936.  We had an amazing view of the nearby Sierra Nevada mountains.

The owner of the apartment we are renting had suggested that the easiest way of getting into town was to take a taxi, which we did.  Unfortunately, the driver didn't know her street and took us on a bit of a wild goose chase at our expense.  Ah well, these things happen.

Eva, the owner (in her mid 30s), was outside her building to greet us.  The apartment is one of the best we have rented in our five years of using VRBO (Vacation Rental by Owner).  The building and the apartment are spotless.  The apartment is very large with all the amenities one could want- even a washer and a dryer.  There are two different types of coffee makers and lots of towels.  Eva was very helpful and even walked us over to the tourist office in a square nearby.

Alano outside our apartment building

Outside door at our apartment- E

Walking down hall with storage area towards living room and kitchen

View looking through living area to bedroom

Alano unpacking

There was a bottle of wine on the table with a welcome note.  Even the lighting is interesting.  There is well functioning air conditioning and heat as well.  All for 59 Euros a night.  The apartment is located on a very quiet street a few blocks from the busier part of town.  After unpacking, we went for a coffee and a bite to eat at a nearby outdoor cafe.  We wanted to be outside as the temperature was a beautiful 26C.  As we are in the mountains, it still drops to 9C at night during this time of year.  Amazing weather.

As we left the apartment, we checked out a boardwalk where Alano can run and caught a glimpse of the mountains.

Sierra Nevada mountains in the distance

Yep-- it's 26C  (couldn't resist taking a photo of the temperature signage)

Having a coffee outside at Futbol Cafe

                                                           Alano chillin' in the sun

We went for a walk, checking out a number of squares with lots of outdoor cafes and restaurants on them.  Very lovely buildings.

Plaza Bib- Rambla

We continued our walk up Carrera del Darro along the Darro River, one of most-walked streets in the city.  It was discovered by the Romantic artists of the 19th century who did etchings of the street.

Walking along the Darro River

Part of an old bridge

We passed a sculpture of Mario Maya (1937-2008), one of Spain's most innovative and influential flamenco dancers.  The sculpture was unveiled in 2014.

Mario Maya by artist Miguel Moreno 2014

We passed by a number of old monasteries and churches on the street.

An old monastery 

There was a spectacular view of the Alhambra, which we are going to visit on March 4.

View of Alhambra from Carrera del Dare

Tile on a house on the Carrera

We stopped at a lovely pastry shop to pick up something for dessert.

Bakery treats

We went back to Plaza Bib-Rambla and spotted a great sculpture on top of the City Hall.

Fanciful sculpture

We had already passed a number of shops selling churros and chocolate (very BIG in Granada).  We decided to stop at Gran Cafe Bib-Rambla, which we found out is the oldest coffee shop in Granada.  It has operated non-stop since 1907.  The square dates back to Arab times and was used for holding jousts and celebrations of the Nasrid rulers.  Under Christian rule, the square was used by Cardinal Cisneros(1436-1517) to burn all Arabic books except those dealing with medicine.  According to a brochure put out by the coffee shop, the coffee beans were roasted in the square, something its oldest clients can remember.

Six churros come on a plate with a large cup of chocolate for dipping.

Gran Cafe Bib-Rambla

Churros, chocolate and a coffee - what a treat!

Inside of the Cafe

We wandered a bit more and stopped for a glass of wine and a plate of clams.  There is a tradition in  Granada of the restaurants serving free tapas with drinks.  We saw another couple eating clams and asked the waitress how much they were.  She said they were free with a drink.  We ordered the wine and she brought the clams- all for six euros (the price of two glasses of a very decent red wine).

Clams at La Chicota restaurant

We then headed back to the apartment for a delicious chicken dinner.  A great start to our Granada visit.

On Tuesday March 3, we decided to take a free tour of Granada run by Tour Guru.  We hadn't known there was a free tour until we stopped at a Tourist Office, and in response to a question about walking tours, the woman said she knew there were free tours but didn't have the exact info.  Thank goodness for Google!

Our rendezvous spot was the fountain at Plaza Nueva at 11:00 a.m.  Our guide was Iago, originally from Italy, but living in Granada for the past seven years.  There were nine of us on the tour- a mix of folks from Germany, Chile, Dublin and Canada.  The focus of the tour was the Albaicin, the old Arab quarter located on one of Granada's two main hills.  The Moors came from the north and settled here in the 11th and 12th centuries.

The Albaicin once flourished as the residential section of the Moors, but it fell into decline when the Christians drove them out.  However, because of the narrow streets, diffuse ownership, this part of the city was not torn down when the modern city of Granada emerged.  The Albaicin is a labyrinth with lots of hidden gems of courtyards, gardens and the remnants of the old city gate.

Iago was an excellent guide, giving us an insight into the social history of the area.  He took us places that we would not have been able to find on our own.

Alano going up one of the narrowest streets in the Albacain

Another street with light fixture

Iago pointed out that 1492 was an important year in Spanish history for a number of reasons--- Columbus sailed to America; the Spanish kings "reconquered" southern Spain; and Jews were expelled from Spain.  In Granada, Muslims and Jews had lived together for hundreds of years.

The Moors in Granada surrendered to the Spanish as they knew they would be defeated but it was agreed that they would be respected.  This lasted only seven years, as Cardinal Cisneros came to Granada in 1499 with the court of the Spanish inquisition and interfered with the Archbishop of the time who was taking a more gradual approach to converting Muslims. Cisneros proceeded with forced mass conversion and, as mentioned earlier, publicly burned all Arabic manuscripts, except those dealing with medicine.  This breach of the Alhambra treaty of 1492 resulted in a revolt which was violently suppressed.  The Moors were given a choice of baptism or exile.  Most accepted baptism and by 1500 Cisneros reported that there is "now no one in the city who is not a Christian, and all the mosques are churches".  Ultimately, however, there was a final expulsion of the descendants of Iberian Moors in Spanish and Portuguese territory.

Iago pointed out that the Santa Ana church was formerly a mosque.  There is a minaret; the arched door narrows; there are tiles;  and the cross is on top of three spheres.  Three spheres are traditionally found on the roofs of mosques.

Santa Ana Church

Detail showing cross on top of three spheres (lower left)

We then climbed to a spot with a great view of the entire Albaicin.

View of the Albaicin from a high point

We could also see the Gypsy caves in the distance.  This area is called Sacromonte and while there are often new facades built, they front elaborate cave structures.

View of Gypsy Caves on Sacromonte

We then went to see the Banos de Nozal.  These Moorish Baths date back to the 11th century, and it is the oldest public building in Granada.  Before they were restored, the building had been used by Christians as a laundry.  The baths were beautifully designed, with small openings in the roof, to let the steam out.  It was a place where political discussions could take place and for the women, a chance to check out potential brides.

Old pillar and newer laundry floor 

Ceiling holes

View from nearby building of roof of baths

We next went to the building which houses a UNESCO Interpretive Centre of the Albaicin called Casa de Zafra.  The Casa was built in the 14th century.  The Albaicin was declared a World Heritage Site in 1994.

Inner courtyard

Iago then took us to a secluded square with a fountain, tiles and orange trees.  A very peaceful refuge for the neighbours.

Courtyard with fountain and orange tree

                                                                              Beautiful orange tree

Iago showed us an old well dating back to the 14th century. He explained that the infrastructure went in the same time the houses were built in the Albaicin.  Unfortunately, once the wells stopped being used, people used to throw garbage into the opening. The metal section was put in to stop this in more recent times.

                                                                   Iago explaining the history of the well

We then stopped at a beautiful spot to see the Sierra Nevada mountains and the Alhambra.

Toby at view point

View of the mountains and Alhambra

Our next stop was the Mesquite Mayor de Granada (Main Mosque of Granada).  It was built in 1998 with funds from the Emirates.  It is located near an old mosque and is very beautiful.  We couldn't go into the area where prayers are held, but the washing area and courtyard were open to the public.

Washing area at Mosque

We then stopped at the Gate of the Weights, dating to the 11-12th centuries.   One can see metal weights hanging over the arch.  Apparently some butchers at the nearby market were cheating clients by using illegal weights.  The weights and the names of the cheaters were hung on the wall.  The Gate is near an existing fruit and clothes market.

Gate of the Weights

Our last stop was the Carmen de la Victoria Universidad de Granada.  Iago explained that Carmen comes from the Arab word Karm being vineyard.  Carmens are areas that contain gardens either owned by one owner or more.  In this case, the gardens belong to the University of Granada.  It was a lovely spot.  Alano and I ended up having lunch here as Iago told us that the location has one of the best views of the Alhambra and the food prices are reasonable.  It was also very secluded and quiet.

Looking in at the entrance to the gardens  (they are open to the public)

We shared one menu del dia and a bowl of tomato soup called salmorejo which is made from a puree of tomatoes, bread, olive oil, garlic and vinegar originating from Cordoba.

Mixed Salad

Salmoreja - like a tomato gazpacho with ham

View of the Alhambra from our table

Dorade and vegetables

Alano with his cortado enjoying the warm sun

Alano and Toby

Throughout the Albaicin we saw beautiful decorated stone pavement.  The pavement near where we ate was an intricate design.

Part of garden we walked through after eating

We headed back into Granada (residents of Albaicin don't say they are going "downtown", but rather that they are going to "Granada").  We got to the main covered Mercat just as it was closing, but managed to get some fish for dinner.  Alano and I were both tired from all the walking in the sun.  We had a siesta, did a bit more grocery shopping and had a late dinner with the wine the owner of the apartment had left us.  Granada is a real gem.  We are enjoying our time here very much.