Amazing Alhambra

On Wednesday March 4, we went to the main market in Granada to do some food shopping.  We had lunch at the apartment and then headed to the Alhambra, one of greatest attractions in Spain.  It was a beautiful sunny day with a high of about 23C.

Outside Mercado San Augustin where we bought salmon for dinner

Lots of fruit stores around the market

The Calat Alhambra (Red Castle) is one of most remarkable fortresses ever constructed.  Muslim architecture reached its peak in this complex, once occupied by Nasrid princes.  Construction started in 1238 by Muhammad I al-Ahmar the founder of the Nasrid dynasty.  Yusuf I, the 7th Nasrid ruler constructed the Comares Palace (1333-1354), and Muhammad V constructed the Palace of the Lions (1354-59/1362-91).  Mohammed XII was the last Nasrid Sultan from 1487-1492. On January 2, 1492, the Alhambra was surrendered to the Catholic Monarchs.  From 1492-1516, Isabella and Ferdinand II conducted extensive repairs and modifications.

After his wedding to Isabella of Portugal in Seville, Charles V (Carlos V)(1500-1558) visited the Alhambra in 1526 and decided to build a Palace, which turned out to be one of the most important works of the Spanish Renaissance.  In 1984, UNESCO declared the Alhambra a World Heritage Site.

Gate leading to the path to the Alhambra

Alano walking up the hill

It was uphill to the ticket office, where we picked up our tickets and audio guide.  We had to be at the Palacio Nazaries ( Palaces of the Nasrids) by 2:30 p.m., but passed a few interesting structures and buildings en route.  The first was the Sultan's Royal Water Channel, which brought water to the Alhambra.

Water is very important in Muslim architecture

The water channel

 We passed through a lovely landscaped garden.

Very lush garden

We passed by the site of the archeological area of the  Palacio de los Abencerrajes.

Palacio de los Abencerrajes

We then paused at the Palacio de Carlos V (Charles V's Palace).  Charles V built a Renaissance palace in the middle of this Moorish stronghold.  In 1526, he ordered Pedro Machuca, a student of Michelangelo, to design him a fitting royal residence.  He financed the palace by levying a tax on the Moors.  In spite of its incongruous location, it is one of the purest examples of classical renaissance in Spain.  There is a magnificent circular two-story courtyard that is open to the sky.

Outside of the palace

Amazing circular inner courtyard

View of Carlos V Palace from garden

We then walked over to the Nasrid Palaces where we had a timed entry.  There are three palaces in this complex built by different Rulers; Mexuar Palace built by Ismail (1314-1325) and Muhammad V (1362-1391); Comares Palace built by Yusef (1333-1354) and Muhammed V; and the Palace of the Lions built by Muhammad V.

Entrance to Nasrid Palaces

We first went into a room in the Mexuar Palace that was used as a tribunal.  It had beautifully decorated walls and windows.   It was later modified by Christian monarchs who added tiles with Christian themes.

Tile detail

Tile in floor added by Christian rulers

Adjoining room with decorative detail

Listening to the audio

We both find the tiles and decoration very appealing.  Beautiful geometric designs.

Alcove with decoration

Beautiful door

 We then moved on to the Comares Palace with a lovely water feature.

Water feature

Photo of the other side of the water feature

Knock three times!

Our favourite room was the Patio de los Leones in the Palace of the Lions.

Intricate door

Entrance to Patio

One view of the lions

The twelve lions are said to represent either the 12 signs of the zodiac or the 12 tribes of Israel.

Another view

The columns 

 There were a number of rooms off the Patio de los Leones.  One had an amazing star-shaped ceiling.

Star-shaped ceiling

 The coloured tiles with Arabic lettering were beautifully designed.

Example of a wall tile

We continued our walk.

View of Garden

 We then came to a set of rooms where Washington Irving (1783-1859) stayed in 1829 when he wrote Tales of the Alhambra.

Plaque indicating that Irving lived in this part of the palace in 1829

These rooms were quite spartan.  Some of the frescos had worn away.

Fireplace

Room with desk

We then went into another garden.  There are many cypress trees, as they grow vertically, and their branches don't interfere with the buildings.

Garden

Couldn't resist the photo op!

 A great view of the Albaicin, where we had walked on Tuesday March 3.

View of the Albaicin area

We then headed towards the Alcazaba, one of the oldest parts in the Alhambra and the military area of the complex.

We passed through La Puerta del Vino (Gate of Wine), which inspired a Claude Debussy composition.  There was a plaque commemorating this on one side of the Gate.

La Puerto del Vino

For Debussy

The Alcazaba, built by the Moors, was modified by the Christian monarchs who were initially worried about attacks from the conquered Moors.

View of Alcazaba

Imposing entrance

Steps to the Torre del Cubo (Round Tower)

Alano climbed to the top of a high tower with a bell (Torre de la Vela- the Watch-Tower).  The Bell was installed by Christian rulers, who would ring it to summon farmers to their fields.  This Tower had an excellent view of Granada.

The Watch Tower

The Bell

There was a lovely small garden on one side of the building, established by a Christian ruler, once fear of an invasion had waned.  The Jadin de los Adarves (Wall-Walk Garden) was a narrow garden with beautiful orange trees and small fountains.  Very peaceful and quiet.

Alano relaxing in the garden

Another fountain

We then walked back through the gardens of the Nazrid palaces.  Water is a very key component of the Alhambra Moors' architecture.

Another water feature

We had about a 20 minute walk to the Generalife, the summer palace of the Moors.  The gardens are open to the public.

View of the Generalife from a distance 

Amazing view of the Sierra Nevadas and Granada

On the way back to the main entrance, we passed a few interesting towers.  The first was the Torre de la Cautiva ( Captive Tour).  The audioguide said that there were no captives held there, but rather it was an elaborate set of chambers.

Torre de la Cautiva

Another beautiful garden in the Generalife

In the garden

Alano looking out at Granada

Oleander trees

As we headed down the hill towards town, we passed a sculpture of Washington Irving who, through his books, contributed to the preservation of the Alhambra.

Washington Irving

We were at the Alhambra from about 1:30 p.m. to just after 5:00 p.m.   We stopped in town for some churros, chocolate and coffees and wandered a bit more.  We then went to the apartment for a salmon dinner.   Food is very reasonably priced in Spain---- fresh fish for two people has cost us in the range of 5-8 euros, and vegetables are also very fresh and inexpensive.

We were both tired, so I am finishing this post on the sunny morning of Thursday March 5.