La Boqueria Market and the Beach

Friday February 27 started out cloudy but by mid afternoon it was a beautiful sunny day (around 14C).  We headed out late morning to La Boqueria, one of the best food markets in the world.  The spot has been a marketplace since medieval days and is the largest of Barcelona's more than 40 public markets. Both locals and tourists shop there. We bought food for dinner.

Entrance to La Boqueria

Of course, across from the market, there was a woman dressed as Marilyn Monroe who was waving from the balcony of the Erotic Museum.

Marilyn?

The Market was totally awesome.  Everything is beautifully displayed and the quality is excellent. We found the stall owners very helpful.  Here are some highlights.

Beautiful produce

Lots of choice for ham

Nuts and Dried Fruits

Olive Oils

Gorgeous Calcots (catalan green onions)

Fish, anyone

Where we bought some Manchego cheese

 We had a dorade filleted for our dinner.  Under four euros for the filet - enough fish for two.

Our dinner

Eggs, anyone?

After leaving the market, we went into the old Gothic quarter (Barri Gotic) and stopped to visit the oldest synagogue in Barcelona (Sinagoga Major)  It is only two rooms, but a guide gives a 15 minute history of the synagogue.  She told us that 15-20% of the population of medieval Barcelona was Jewish and that as the Jews paid taxes directly to the King rather than the Church, the King offered protection to the Jews.  King James I visited the synagogue in 1263. There were four small synagogues at this time in Barcelona.  This was due to the fact that no synagogue could be built higher than the smallest church.  However, it was a thriving community and while there was a Jewish quarter, it was not a ghetto.  

This all changed in 1391 when a pogrom took place during one of the worst black plague epidemics in Europe.  The black plague killed 60% of Barcelona residents, but a lower percentage of Jews due to more rigorous hygiene practices.  Jews were blamed for the Black plague in Barcelona and over 400 Jews were massacred and others were forced to convert or flee.  The Inquisition in 1492 was the final blow, but the community was already destroyed.  

By 1477, the building was a clothes dying establishment and had many other uses after that time.  In the late 1980s, a researcher found the location of the synagogue. His research was based on documents from a tax collector, noting its location and the fact that the synagogue didn't have to pay taxes. The location was also identified as being a synagogue as the building was oriented eastward to Jerusalem and had two windows.  The building was an electronics store in 1995 when it was purchased by a member of the Jewish community.  It was restored and opened to the public in 2002 as a museum.  While there is no regular congregation, it is used for ceremonies (marriages etc).  A New York lawyer donated a 500 year old Torah scroll to the synagogue in 2006.  There are 1000 Jewish families in Barcelona today and four active synagogues in other parts of the city.

Our guide told us that the synagogue dates back to the Roman times (300-400 A.D.) as a corner stone was found that had 18 (chai) written in Roman numerals.  The restored rooms are where the men prayed.  The women's section  (only 20 square m) is a kitchen in an adjoining restaurant.  

A fascinating piece of history!

Alano going down the steps into the synagogue

Room where men would have prayed in the old synagogue 

 We saw a 15 century key similar to those that the exiled Jews would have taken with them.

Old key and other artifacts

The synagogue was on a very ancient street.  Other signage noted parts of an old Roman wall.

View up the street with the synagogue

We then stopped at a cheese shop recommended in a guide book. Formatgeria La Seu is the only cheese shop in Spain that specializes in Spanish only farmhouse cheeses.  It is run by a Scottish woman with a bit of a prickly personality.  There is small cheese room.  She gave us tastes of the three sheep cheeses that she had that day.  They were all amazing.  We bought a piece of La Serena, one of the few soft sheep cheeses I have ever had.  

Small room with cheeses

                                                        La Serena sheep cheese

    

After leaving the cheese shop we passed a building dating back to 1770.  

                                                       1770 building in Gothic Quarter

We also passed a sign we have seen all over Barcelona advertising the new TV show "Better Call Saul."  Couldn't resist the Spanish ad.

                                                                  Alano and "Better call Saul" ad

We took the food back to the apartment and had a light lunch with the sheep cheese and bread.  The sun had come out and we headed to the beach.  We first passed a Marina area with many large boats.

                                                                    Marina

The beaches are gorgeous-- Barcelona started the transformation of their waterfront for the 1992 Olympics and has continued since that time to beautify the area.  We saw lots of surfers in the water and a number of sailboats were out in the sea.

Toby on the Beach

                                            View from Barceloneta beach towards new W Hotel

We also immediately noticed this big fish in the distance.  It turned out to be a Frank Gehry sculpture of a gold fish called Peix (fish), which has become the symbol of Barcelona's waterfront.  We walked down the boardwalk to see the fish up close.

Gehry's fish from the distance

                                                                            The Fish up close

                                                               Another interesting building

The beach was beautiful and there were many surfers taking advantage of the sun and waves.

Getting ready to surf the waves

On the way to the beach

We passed a very cool sculpture of a tower.  It was commissioned for the 1992 Olympics and is entitled L'Estrel Ferit (the Wounded Star) and pays homage to the old sailors quarters in La Barceloneta quarter.  The sculpture concepts of four steel cubes stacked one above the other.  It also references old lighthouses that are no longer required.  The piece is by Rebecca Horn (b. 1944), a German visual artist. 

L'Estrel Ferit

Our final stop on our walk home, was to get a cone of frites from a chip stand that has been in La Barceloneta (the waterfront quarter) since 1960.

Chip Stand

                                                               Getting our frites ready

We walked back to the apartment and had a wonderful dinner with the dorade, potatoes, a green salad and some roja.  Manchego cheese and pear for dessert.   Lots of steps - about 18,000 for the day.

It is now Saturday February 28 and there is bright blue sky and sun.

Visit to Basilica de la Sagrada Familia and Jazz

Thursday February 26 was mainly cloudy and around 14C.  Another good walking day.  We spent the afternoon visiting Gaudi's masterpiece - the Basilica de la Sagrada Familia (Church of the Holy Family). The Basilica was the inspiration of a bookseller, Josep Maria Bocabella (1815-1892), the founder of the Spiritual Association of the Devotees of St. Joseph.  After raising private donations, the construction of the crypt began on March 18, 1882, following a Gothic revival design of architect Francisco de Paula del Villar.  Antoni Gaudi (1852-1926) took over in March 1883 and significantly changed the design to an incredible mix of Catalan Modernism, Art Nouveau and Gothic.   At the time of his death in 1926 ( he was run over by a tram), the Basilica was only about 25% complete.  Construction was interrupted by the Spanish Civil War (1936-39) and many of Gaudi's models and drawings were destroyed in a fire set by anarchists during the war.

Construction resumed intermittently in the 1980s and has continued apace in recent years.  There are three main facades- the Nativity (built before 1935 and bearing the most direct Gaudi influence), the Passion facade which began in 1954, with the towers completed in 1976.  It's figures were designed by Josep Maria Subirachs  (started in 1986) and are very different that the figures on the Nativity facade. The final facade- the Glory- commenced in 2002, but is far from complete.

The Basilica is now scheduled to be completed in 2026, the 100th anniversary of Gaudi's death.

Alano and I visited Sagrada Familia in 1998, the last time we were in Barcelona.  A lot of work has been completed in the last 17 years.  There are many beautiful stained glass windows that are the work of Catalan artist Joan Villa Grau, who was commissioned to design the windows in 1999.

The interior is amazing.  Gaudi had envisioned a forest of trees and the result is spectacular.
The church was consecrated by Pope Benedict XVI in November 2010 as a minor basilica.  

Gaudi is buried under the nave.

View from the street

New construction next to old

Soaring towers--once completed this will be the highest church in the world

The Nativity facade, constructed between 1894 and 1930 is dedicated to the birth of Jesus.  The facade is decorated in a naturalistic style, characteristic of Gaudi.  Lots of symbolism and detail.

The three kings

Eternal tree with doves

Another scene from the Nativity facade

We then went inside.  The combination of light coming through the beautifully coloured stained glass and the soaring forest of trees with palm fronds is spectacular.

The three predominant colours of the stained glass

Jesus Christ over the nave

Elaborate staircase

A look at the ceiling

Detail on a column with palm front

             Area where services are conducted

The Passion facade on the other side of the building represents the passion, death and resurrection of Jesus Christ.  The figures designed by Josep Subirachs are sparse, stark and very much in an expressionist style.  One of the figures is modelled after Gaudi.  The work on the figures was done after 1986.

Jesus Christ on the cross

We wandered back into the interior to take a few more pictures of the soaring trees and ceiling.

Detail of knot in the tree

There was also one completed part of the cloister of Our Lady of the Rosary.  Beautiful intricate design.

Part of Cloister

Construction began in 2002 on the third facade, the Glory facade, which will represent the road to God: Death, Final Judgment and Glory.  This facade is still largely to be built.  There will be a bronze door with the prayer "Give us this day our daily bread" in 50 languages.

The Sagrada Familia Schools constructed in 1909 by Gaudi for the children of the workers of the building and other children of the neighbourhood is located in one corner of the site. Both the walls and roof have a wavy form.  The building has been an inspiration to many architects for its simplicity and unique design.  It suffered damage during the Spanish Civil War and was dismantled and reconstructed in the 1940s.  In 2002, the building was again dismantled and moved to the southern corner of the site.

Back to school

Alano under a Gaudi quote

Detail of school construction

Gaudi's work table

There was also a museum.  It contained drawings, models and pictures associated with the history of the building of the Basilica.   There was also a workshop where models are made.  The scope of the project is overwhelming.

Model of bust of Gaudi for the Passion Facade  (by Subirachs)

                                                               View of the Workshop

We took one last photo of the other side of the Basilica.  The 2026 date may still be ambitious for the completion of this amazing building.

After leaving the Basilica, we wandered down one of the beautiful streets in the Eixample (Extension) area of Barcelona.  I bought a skirt on sale (the Barcelona sales period ends this weekend) at a Barcelona designer's shop.  David Vells has been designing for 30 years and was joined seven years ago by his daughter Ingrid.  Very unique designs.

Outside of David Vells shop

More Catalan flags on the building

                                                    These buildings reminded us of Paris 

We stopped for a coffee and then continued to walk back to our neighbourhood.  There was a free jazz concert at the Born Cultural Centre that we wanted to catch at 8:00 p.m.   We made it there just in time.  There were over 130 people in a beautiful hall with tables and a stage.  Luckily, the organizers put in some extra chairs and we were able to get seats.

The concert featured Eva Fernandez, a rising star of the Catalan jazz scene.  She played the saxophone and sang.  Her band was excellent featuring David Pastor on the trumpet, Jose Luis Guart on piano, Toni Pages on drums, and an excellent bassist.  

The stage

                                                                     Eva

                                                           The Band taking their bows

It was a enjoyable set in and a very nice venue.  The concert ended at 9:30 p.m. and we then went for dinner at Cal Pep in our 'hood.  

We had fond memories of Cal Pep, a Catalan restaurant featuring seafood.  We sat at the bar (the best place to be) and were given suggestions on what to have.   We started with bread with tomato, fried artichokes, a mixed seafood plate and our favourite, clams with small pieces of chorizo in a white wine sauce.  We were fortunate at 10:00 p.m. to score seats at the bar.  

Mixed seafood

At the bar

Amazing clams

                                                                 Tomato bread

Another great day in Barcelona.  It is now Friday February 27 and we are going to head out to the Boqueria Market on La Rambla.